Sweet Thing: Dough.

He had me at "vivid magenta hibiscus."

In February, the dead of New York winter, the Times ran a story written by dining editor, Pete Wells, on noteworthy doughnut shops around the city.

While I was already familiar with the grand, fancied creations of Mark Isreal at Doughnut Plant, and the fried classics at Greenpoint's Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop, this hibiscus business - dreamt up at a Brooklyn bakery called Dough - was something new. Never mind the chocolate glaze that was "rich enough to stop time." Hibiscus? On a doughnut? An instant must-try.

The dough - fittingly - was outstanding. The icing, however, was applied with a bit of a heavier hand than I would have liked. Flavorful, yes. Unusual, definitely. And the hibiscus flowers were a nice touch. But in order to savor this exceptional pastry in all its fluffy glory, I'd recommend sticking with the standards : plain old cinnamon-sugar more than makes the grade.


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